YVES SAINT LAURENT

1971 : January: Shows a 1940s-inspired collection. For the French, these silhouettes evoke the Occupation as well as the gay camp aesthetic of Warhol's drag queens and the gay liberation movement. The press is outraged. Saint Laurent openly dismisses the critics as "narrow-minded and reactionary, petty people paralysed by taboos" and denigrates couture as "a museum" that is "bogged down in a boring tradition of so-called good taste and refinement." Younger fans who did not live through the war take to the looks. May: Bianca P茅rez Mora de Macias marries Mick Jagger in a Saint Laurent white 1940s suit. July: Saint Laurent presents a subdued couture show, with many of the press banned in the wake of their reaction to the 1940s collection. October: Mounts a triumphant first Rive Gauche pr锚t-脿-porter show in Paris. Poses nude for a YSL men's cologne ad shot by Jeanloup Sieff, becoming the first designer to use his own image to promote his products (and causing a mini scandal). Begins going regularly to Club Sept, drinking more heavily, and using cocaine.

1974 : Strikes an agreement with clothing manufacturer Maurice Bidermann to make Rive Gauche menswear in America. Berg茅 begins to aggressively expand Yves Saint Laurent licenses, for everything from sunglasses to beach towels and pens. Uncomfortable with being recognized everywhere he goes, Saint Laurent begins to shy away from public outings.

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